Khajuraho Travel Guide:
Temples, History, Festival, Stay & Food

Khajuraho, in the Chhatarpur district of Madhya Pradesh, is one of India's most remarkable heritage destinations. Its temples were built more than a thousand years ago and are known for their stone architecture and detailed sculpture. This guide covers the history, the three temple groups, the museums, the Dance Festival, and practical tips on where to stay, eat, shop and get around.

Why Visit Khajuraho?

The name comes from the ancient term khajur-vahaka, a reference to the date palm (khajur) trees that once surrounded the settlement. The temples were built between the 9th and 12th centuries CE under the Chandela dynasty and were later forgotten under dense forest. They were rediscovered in 1838 by Captain T.S. Burt, a British officer guided by local villagers.

In 1986, UNESCO declared the Khajuraho Group of Monuments a World Heritage Site. The Chandela rulers built 85 temples here, and 25 survive today.

A Brief History: The Chandela Dynasty

The Chandelas were a Rajput lineage who ruled the Jejakabhukti region of central India between the 9th and 13th centuries CE. They began as feudatories of the Pratiharas and grew into one of central India's most resilient kingdoms.

• Yashovarman (c. 925–950 CE): built the Lakshmana Temple.
• Dhanga (c. 950–1002 CE): expanded the kingdom and patronised masterpieces such as the Vishvanatha and Parsvanatha temples.
• Vidyadhara (c. 1017–1029 CE): regarded as the most powerful Chandela ruler. The Kandariya Mahadeva Temple is often attributed to his reign.

Travellers such as Al-Biruni (11th century) and Ibn Battuta (14th century) described Khajuraho as a thriving town with a large lake and magnificent temples.

Architecture: What Makes the Temples Special

The temples follow the Nagara style, with curving shikharas (spires) rising above high platforms. Most share a plan of an inner sanctum (garbhagriha), a vestibule, pillared halls and a porch. Most face east, so the first light of dawn falls on their facades.

The walls carry sculptures of deities, musicians, dancers, animals and scenes of daily life. Only a small percentage of the sculptures are erotic. They are part of a larger celebration of life, reflecting the idea that desire is one stage of life that sublimates into devotion and liberation.

Sculpture and architecture are inseparable here: every wall tells a story in stone.

Khajuraho Temples by Group

The temples are divided into three clusters: Western, Eastern and Southern.

Western Group of Temples (the main attraction)

This is the largest and best-preserved cluster, with 12 temples and shrines near the Sib Sagar tank.

Kandariya Mahadeva Temple

• Built around 1030 AD and rising 30.5 metres, it is the tallest and most accomplished temple at Khajuraho.
• It is dedicated to Shiva and houses a polished marble linga.
• Its exterior walls display nearly 900 sculpted figures in three bands.
• Clusters of miniature spires around the main tower resemble a mountain range.

Lakshmana Temple

• One of the finest and best-preserved temples here, dedicated to Vishnu.
• It stands on a high platform with four subsidiary shrines intact at the corners.
• An inscription dated 953–954 CE records that King Yashovarman built it.

Vishvanatha Temple

• Built around 1002 AD under King Dhanga and dedicated to Shiva.
• It is known for graceful apsaras carved in natural poses.
• A separate pavilion in front holds a large monolithic Nandi.

Other Western Group highlights

• Chitragupta Temple: dedicated to Surya, the Sun God, with a rare eleven-headed Vishnu image.
• Devi Jagadambi Temple: popularly called the Kali Temple but originally dedicated to Vishnu.
• Matangeshvara Temple: the only temple at Khajuraho still in active worship, with an 8 ft 4 in polished Shiva linga.
• Varaha Temple: a simple shrine holding a monolithic boar incarnation of Vishnu carved with 674 figures.
• Mahadeva, Nandi, Parvati and Lalguan Mahadev temples: smaller shrines worth a short stop.
• Chausath Yogini Temple (c. 875 CE): the oldest surviving monument at Khajuraho, built of granite and unlike the sandstone temples.

Eastern Group of Temples

These smaller temples are more restrained in sculpture. The Eastern Group includes both Hindu and Jain shrines, showing the pluralistic character of the site.

• Parsvanath Temple: the finest Jain temple here, known for sculptures of celestial maidens in everyday moments.
• Adinath Temple: a small Jain shrine with three bands of sculpture.
• Ghantai Temple: named for its carved chain-and-bell pillars.
• Shantinath Temple: a modern Jain temple with a 14 ft Tirthankara image.
• Vamana, Javari and Brahma temples: the Hindu shrines of the group. Despite its name, the Brahma Temple is a Shaiva shrine.

Southern Group of Temples

The smallest group has two temples set in open countryside:

• Duladeo Temple: a Shiva temple from the last phase of Chandela building, noted for its carved bracket figures.
• Chaturbhuja (Jatkari) Temple: a west-facing Vishnu temple with a 10 ft four-armed image and no erotic sculptures.

Bijamandala Temple

A significant recent archaeological discovery, where excavation has revealed the remains of a large temple complex.

Museums in Khajuraho

• Archaeological Museum: five galleries of Chandela-period sculpture, including Vaikuntha Vishnu, Sadasiva, apsaras and Jain figures. The sculptures are at eye level, so you can study details that are hard to see on the temples.
• Aadivart (State Museum of Tribal and Folk Arts): explores the Gond, Bhil, Baiga, Bharia, Korku, Kol and Sahariya communities through houses, paintings, ritual objects and an open cultural village. It also features the work of Bhil artist Bhuri Bai.

Khajuraho Dance Festival

The Khajuraho Dance Festival (Khajuraho Nritya Samaroh) was started in 1975 by the Government of Madhya Pradesh. It is held every February in the open-air precincts of the temple complex, with the illuminated temples as the backdrop.

• Dance styles: Kathak, Bharatanatyam, Odissi, Kuchipudi, Manipuri, Kathakali and Mohiniyattam.
• Beyond dance: craft exhibitions, an art mart, a film corner (Chal Chitra), art discussions (Kala Varta) and a food corner (Swad).
• Records: the 2024 golden jubilee edition set a Guinness World Record for the largest simultaneous Kathak performance, with 1,484 dancers.

Where to Stay in Khajuraho

Options range from luxury to budget and homestays:

• Luxury and boutique: The Lalit Temple View, Ramada Khajuraho, Bundela Resort.
• Mid-range and near the temples: Hotel Harmony, Syna Heritage Hotel, Hotel Chandela, MPT Payal.
• Budget: Zostel Khajuraho.
• Homestays and resorts: Shri Krishna Jungle Resort, Namaste Homestay, Tourist Village Khajuraho.

Browse and compare stays on our Khajuraho hotels page.

What to Eat

• Breakfast: poha with peanuts and coriander.
• Local dishes: Dal Bafla, plus Bundelkhandi dishes such as Korma, Khatta and Bhutte Ka Kees.
• Street food and drinks: Aloo Tikki Chaat, Bhel Puri, Dahi Puri and lassi.
• Sweets: Khaja and Gajak.
• Restaurants: Pinch of Salt, La Bella Italia and Raja Cafe, which has served visitors for around 35 years.

Shopping in Khajuraho

Look for handloom textiles, tribal art, sculptures, jewellery, Dhokra metal crafts and books on the temples. Places to try include the government handicrafts emporium (Mrignayani), Karan Jewellers & Handicraft, Kuber, Crafts Emporium, Shiv Handicraft Emporium, and the stalls near the temple complex.

How to Reach Khajuraho and Get Around

• By air: Khajuraho Airport has domestic connections and operates mainly in peak season and during the dance festival.
• By train: Khajuraho Railway Station.
• By road: well-maintained highways make a scenic road trip possible.
• Local travel: auto-rickshaws, taxis, segways, rented bicycles and travel agents. Local guides are available, many speaking languages such as English, French, Italian, Spanish and Russian.

Best Time to Visit Khajuraho

October to March is the best time, with pleasant winter weather. Visit in February if you want to catch the Dance Festival.

Travel Tips

• Book tickets online from the official Archaeological Survey of India website, and avoid unofficial ticket sellers. Tickets are valid for the day you book.
• Dress modestly and follow temple etiquette.
• Visit the Western Group early in the morning for softer light and fewer crowds.
• Allow time for the Eastern and Southern groups and the museums.

Emergency Numbers in Khajuraho

Frequently Asked Questions

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